UKlogcabins blog page

Read useful info here about our cabins and garden buildings.

Ask us a question and we'll do our best to answer you as soon as we can by posting a blog in this page.

16 October 2022 By Keith Lynch

Log cabin repairs

Repairing log cabin walls – is it possible to replace rotten wall logs in a log cabin?

The simple answer is yes BUT it’s not something for a DIYer or even a “professional” handyman. We have specialist equipment and decades of experience carrying our log cabin repairs and in all things “log cabin”. Click here if you would like to know more about us.

Analysing the problem (we don’t just guess what work or repair in needed!)

The usual logs that need replacing are of course the ones at the very bottom. This is where they get wet from rain splash back dripping off the roof. The bases are all too often oversize. This then creates a “shelf” for rain to drip onto from the roof. Or even just heavy rain that lands on it, causing splash back. When timber gets wet over a longish period it also causes any paint to peel off. This exposes the bare timber and making the situation even worse.

Replace a rotten wall log in a log cabin — Does this look familiar? If so, then you need to do something about it – if it’s still solid timber then treat it with a wood preservative and then paint it with a waterproof timber treatment. If rotten then this should be replaced sooner rather than later as it will only ever get worse.

It may not be just the wall logs

The next in line is the floor of the cabin – all too often, cabins are built straight onto the concrete base. There is no form of damp proof course or membrane. So although customers think that it is only rotten wall logs at the bottom of their wall(s), it is very often the case that the floor bearers have gone rotten as well. Leading to a comment such as “I thought the floor was a bit bouncy over there”!

Avoiding a bodge job repair (that will only make matters worse)

Log cabin walls are built from the ground up. Fully interlocking into the logs above and below as they go up. That means it is not possible to just simply remove and replace a log. Someone not knowing this would probably just try to repair the log cabin wall by cutting the log in question out. They don’t necessarily think about how they would get a new one back in. This probably resulting in a bodge with glue, filler and screws that would end up leaking.

Hortons have the knowhow (and the right equipment) to carry out log cabin repairs

Hortons have developed a method to carry out these log cabin repairs where we actually lift the whole cabin up above the rotten logs. How is this possible??? We use hydraulic rams! We lift it high enough to be able to simply lift the log in question up out of the notch joints in the corner.

https://youtu.be/kRixO1wU3tg

The gap needs to be about 150mm to do this. Then we just slot the replacement log into place. Then simply lower the cabin back down again for a seamless repair.

How to replace a wall log and floor in a log cabin

Do everything once and do it right

We can also easily replace rotten floors / floor bearers as well whilst the cabin is up in mid-air. Cabins are always built off of the floor bearers meaning that they are trapped under the walls, making them very tricky to replace. In order to get to the floor bearers, we need to lift the floor boards first. Unfortunately nearly all floor boards are nailed down and it’s almost impossible to avoid damaging them when taking up, so new floor boards are usually required. However, the good thing is that we can take advantage by also laying a full damp proof membrane (DPM) over the whole area to stop this ever happening again (see a video of how we lay our DPM here).

Our log cabin repairs are as good as new – Sometimes even better!

By the time we have finished, the cabin is in a great state of health and will last more many more years to come, just look at the corner log cabin below being repaired. This is a list of things that were carried out in this cabin repair –

New damp proof membrane
New replacement bottom logs around the whole cabin
New timber base ring beam and floor bearers
New floor boards
New windows and doors

We give our customers peace of mind as well as many more years of use for their log cabin!

This is not a job for the fainthearted! Unless you are a real expert, we don’t suggest that you even think about trying it.

14 August 2022 By Keith Lynch

Painting a log cabin after installation

This is a hint worth knowing about!

When painting a log cabin you need to be aware that the log cabin will settle down immediately once built. It doesn’t matter how hard you hit the logs as you are building it (for instance, one log may bow down a millimetre or two. But the next log on top may bow in the opposite direction – suddenly you cabin is 3 or 4mm higher). The weight of the roof bearing down on the cabin walls is enough to start straightening these “imperfections” out, but this take a little bit of time of course. It is easily possible for a cabin to settle down 50mm in the first few weeks.

Decades of experience

We have actually built very tall cabins that have settled 100mm! The taller the cabin, the more it will settle down. This is because it is made with more logs and therefore more joints between the logs which need to “mould” into each other. It is also a fact that the thicker the wall logs, the longer it will take to settle down (they are stronger and so will resist this compression phase for longer).

So that’s the initial settlement phase of a log cabin, but there is also the seasonal change as well…..

PAINTING A LOG CABIN DURING SUMMER

As the air temperature and moisture content decrease, the wall logs will also reflect this change. Depending on the exact use of the timber, “normal” moisture content for softwood timber for external use is around 19%. When timber loses moisture, it shrinks. In extreme cases, ie heatwaves, external timber can reach below 5% moisture content. This means that a typical 135mm high log could reduce down to 132mm. This doesn’t sound like much. But if a cabin is 15 logs high, it means the cabin can be 45mm shorter than it’s equilibrium status (during Spring and Autumn)!

PAINTING A LOG CABIN DURING WINTER

Conversely, timber swells when it gains moisture content (who remembers the old style wooden kitchen doors jamming up in the Winter???). This is where using a good quality timber treatment/paint comes in. This will stop too much rain getting to the timber face and stop too much being absorbed which would cause the logs to swell. And if left unprotected long term, going rotten of course. Nonetheless, the moisture content of the logs will increase during Winter regardless. This therefore means the cabin could be as much as 20mm taller than it’s yearly average.

So that is the background to this article – log cabins move up and down!

The easy solution

This then leads on to a helpful hint when painting a log cabin. Bearing in mind that people usually paint it in the first few days after installation. This is correct as per T&C’s but it is also before any of the settlement / movement has happened. Most people would paint around the window and door trims / architraves……But what happens when the cabin walls move?…….

Winter – the walls swell up, leaving potentially unpainted wood showing above the frame.

Summer – the walls shrink, leaving unpainted areas below the architrave “haunches”.

There is of course a very simple solution that most people don’t think of. Which is to unscrew the top trims from the frame before painting. And then replace them when the painting is complete – it’s as simple as that! It doesn’t matter what time of year it is (ie the timber moisture content, and so the height of the cabin) – the cabin will still move up and down (as it should do) but there won’t be any unpainted timber showing.

In a perfect world…..

The more all-encompassing way to paint a cabin is painting it before installing the windows and doors – which gives all round protection to all of the logs, even the hidden parts no longer in view. Thus ensuring a longer cabin lifespan.

The best option is one that not many other companies offer (but we do!) – factory painting. Not only are all logs (including the tongues, grooves and all notches), windows, doors, fascia boards painted all round (twice) but you get a much better finish because of the spray paint (or stain) finish, so there are no brush marks at all.

7 August 2022 By Keith Lynch

Damp proof membranes for log cabins

Log cabins need damp proof membranes! There are many companies selling log cabins, but very few that provide a damp proof membrane (DPM) for their cabins. Nor even advise customers about this.

There are a few main reasons why cabins don’t last as long as they should do. The major one being the lack of a DPM which prevents damp rising up into the base timbers. Then it progresses up further into the cabin floor an wall logs……. “The bearers are pressure treated, so it doesn’t need one” – WRONG! The base timbers will eventually rot, even if treated. The base timbers will transfer this moisture up into the floor boards and bottom wall boards. Such a shame to have to replace a cabin when just a few extra pounds would eliminate this problem from the outset. Installing log cabins correctly saves years of heart-ache later on, simple as that!

Correctly installing DPM is essential

So laying a DPM is essential in our view, but it’s also how it’s laid that also makes a big difference. Cutting it off around the edge of the floor / bearers just exposes open edges at ground level. Therefore rain / rain water will get on top of it and run in under the building. With nowhere to go because the DPM is waterproof! Even worse if there’s a dip in the base. This will cause a puddle under the floor. Then the water could evaporate creating a high air moisture content, which will rise up through the floor. The last stage is what causes the damage. It transfers into the building where it will condense on any colder surface. This “water” looks like there is a leak (especially if it condenses on the underside of the roof).

This is not fantasy, we have seen this actually happen. This could also happen if the bearers are just laid on strips of damp proof course. Although not as likely, assuming the ends of the bearers are open and will therefore ventilate.

The method

The best way to lay a DPM is if it is over-size and then laying the bearers on top of it. Crucially the excess DPM is folded back on top of the bearers before building the walls. This way there are no cut edges at ground level, ensuring it stays dry. Our DPM kit also adapts the floor to include an extra timber cover fillet all around the edges. This covers the exposed DPM, Thus protecting it from UV degradation and also mechanical damage (strimmers etc)…..

If you have an insulated floor, then the spaces between the bearers is full of insulation. Hence there are no air gaps and therefore nothing to ventilate (warm deck). If it is not an insulated floors then the spaces between the bearers need ventilation. This can be easily achieved by drilling a series of holes along the appropriate flank. Drill these with an upward angle at least 30mm up from the bottom so if any water does find it’s way to the opening, it will simply run back out again.

These damp proof membranes for log cabins measures will probably at least double the life of your cabin. Easy when you follow the correct installation method, and only a few pounds extra.

24 July 2022 By Keith Lynch

Log Cabin Maintenance Service

We have had many enquiries over the years asking whether we offer re-roofing services, painting services and other maintenance options. This is very common most recently. Therefore we have decided to add a log cabin maintenance service to our repertoire.

Log cabins aren’t like other types of garden buildings. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you can do more harm than good. There have been many instances over the years where a customer has employed a jobbing builder or handyman. Apparently they “have been doing this type of works for decades and I know what I’m doing!”………..Guess what – they think it’s a shed and start nailing and screwing everywhere. This then stops the logs from moving (they must be free to move) and causing all sorts of issues –

Gaps in walls
Lifting the roof off when the cabin settles down
Stopping the doors from working because the door frame has been pushed out of square
Simple log cabin door adjustments end up as “Sorry, you’ll need to buy a new door”!
You name it, we’ve seen it!

Reliable expertise

Hortons have various teams of installers who “know” log cabins and how to build them. This is essential knowledge if working on a cabin. You not only know what to do but also how to do it. There’s no point in having a theory of what to do if you do irreparable damage trying to get to the bit that you think is causing the issue. They can leave a trail of destruction – gaps in log cabins walls is a very common thing. Our installers have 2 major advantages here. They will almost certainly know what the problem is being caused by. AND they know how to rectify it without destroying the building.

Don’t just do a repair and then forget about it for another 10 years! Maintain your building

There is also ongoing maintenance to be considered – re-painting, re-roofing, adjusting doors and windows, etc. We can also offer our log cabin maintenance service. Our company also has a big advantage here. We stock many of the items required to carry this work out (felt roll, felt shingles, insecticide & fungicide base coat treatments, spare hinges, spare wall logs, spare roof & floor boards etc). So not only can we bring these with us. But also they will be much cheaper than buying from a local timber merchant or hardware DIY store.

Replacing rotten wall logs in a log cabin

How do you replace a log in an interlocking garden cabin? We offer this as a unique service – nobody else has the expertise or equipment to be able to do this. It is nearly always the bottom logs that rot due to insufficient maintenance and/or no damp proof course being installed when it was originally built. Log cabins are built by layering the wall logs from the bottom up, overlapping at the corners – so how do you replace the bottom log??? Quite simply, we have purpose built heavy duty equipment which enables us to actually lift the whole cabin up! Then we can drop the bottom logs out from underneath, replace with fresh logs and then lower the cabin back down again. We can even replace the floor and/or floor bearers whilst it is up in the air – and even in extreme cases, lay a new concrete base for your cabin before lowering it back down again!

Any garden cabin repair is possible if you have the experience, know-how and the proper equipment

Don’t believe odd-jobbers saying it’s not possible when they visit to quote for your log cabin repair. And please don’t let them cut and splice replacement logs in for just a few quid – you will regret it when it starts to leak soon afterwards.

Whatever you need doing to your garden outbuilding (including sheds, garden workshops, log cabins, summerhouses, garages, etc) – we are able to help you – please contact us for details about how we can help you to refurbish your log cabin and make it the ideal garden cabin for you

9 July 2022 By Keith Lynch

Building regulations and planning permission for log cabins and garden buildings

Do log cabins need to comply with building regulations?

Building regulations for log cabins – there are many myths regarding this subject. As a rule, small garden building don’t need to comply with Building Regulations (this is different to planning permission). Building regulations concern themselves with structural stability, insulation values. And also generally how well built the structure is. Whereas planning permission is generally concerned with where you put it and how it looks.

Hortons 4×4 log cabins and smaller do not fall under any restrictions in a garden regardless of where site them. Unless it is within a conservation area or ANOB, in which case you would need to check with your council. Most people know about the planning permission side of things – the main one is “under 2.5m high if close to a boundary”. And “less than 50% of garden area”, plus may be some others). BUT most people aren’t aware of Building Regulations. Complications can arise if it’s going to be more than just a summerhouse / shed / game room type structure. Once deemed as habitable or semi-habitable then that’s a whole new ballgame.

Building regulations for log cabins? Yes, for larger cabins

All buildings over 30sqm “INTERNAL FLOOR AREA” require Building Regs approval (quite a few people know this). This also includes the base as well – do not buy a Building Regs compliant building and think you can just build it on an existing base. You may come unstuck! Bases will need to comply by using the standard Building Control specifications for your area. These are usually way over the top for a timber garden building. Employing a structural engineer to calculate what is actually required pays in the long run. This may cost a bit to start with but usually saves a fortune because the base calculations prove what the specification required is. Which is nearly always to a much lower spec once the calculations are shown to the council official).

It is also true that some buildings between 15sqm – 30sqm also fall within Regs as well. But this is only for 1 specific set of circumstances…. If sited closer than 1m to ANY boundary then it needs to be “constructed substantially of non-combustible materials”. We offer factory applied fire protection coating to Class B – s1,d0. This used to be universally accepted by all councils but we cannot guarantee this to be the case any more. You will need to check with your local Building Control department. Most companies do not have a clue about this. Or if they do, then they keep quiet as they are much more interested in knowingly taking your order without either offering a solution or telling you to contact the council.

Smaller garden building do not need to comply with building regulations

However, any garden building of less than 15sqm internally don’t need to comply with this regulation either. We measure our log cabins from log end to log end, so allowing for this and for the wall thicknesses as well (which vary) then Hortons 4x4m cabins (16sqm externally) come out to be just less than 14sqm – although the external size is 16sqm, the internal footprint for a 45mm wall log cabin is just under 14sqm, so it can be built anywhere in your garden (even right up to the boundary should you wish, however think about future maintenance before you decide to do this! We will address this topic in a later blog.). This is how to work out the internal measurement for one of our cabins –

There is a little bit more to consider if you are looking to buy a Twin Skin log cabin as there is another wall thickness and wall cavity to include within the calculations as well –

Is planning permission complicated for garden buildings?

There are only few regulations that generally apply to log cabins and garden buildings. We do not offer advice regarding this subject, however this link to the government website for planning permission covers the very basics rules that apply. WE do advise that you check with your local council if you are in any doubt (especially if you are within an AONB (area of outstanding natural beauty), conservation area or a national park)